Cycling in Italy: A guide to riding in one of cycling's most beautiful heartlands

Cycling in Italy: A guide to riding in one of cycling's most beautiful heartlands

All the information for planning your cycling trip to Italy

Words: India Paine

Italy – a land where history, culture, and natural beauty converge, offers an unparalleled experience for cycling enthusiasts. Imagine the thrill of riding through the rolling hills of Tuscany, where endless vineyards and olive groves stretch beneath the golden sun, or gliding alongside the sparkling waters of Lake Garda, framed by the towering peaks of the Alps. Italy's diverse landscapes invite cyclists to explore its charming countryside, ancient cities, and dramatic coastlines, each route revealing a new facet of the country's timeless allure.

As you cycle through Italy, you will also encounter the vibrant heart of its culture – quaint villages where time seems to stand still, bustling markets brimming with fresh produce and historic sites that tell the story of a thousand lifetimes. But cycling in Italy is not just about the ride – it is about immersing yourself in the Italian way of life. Before, during and after your rides, you will have the chance to savour regional delicacies, from handmade pasta in Emilia-Romagna to fresh seafood on the Amalfi Coast, all paired with world-class wines that are as storied as the land itself. Whether you’re pushing through the final ascent of a mountain pass or leisurely exploring a sunlit piazza in the city, each moment on the bike is an invitation to connect with Italy’s rich heritage and passionate spirit.

So if you are after a slice of the dolce vita lifestyle, then Italy is the perfect destination for your next cycling holiday. Rouleur takes a look at how to get there, whether you should hire a bike or take your own, regions to explore, bucket list climbs to conquer, and famous sportives to take part in.

How to get to Italy 

Italy is one of Europe's most popular destinations, so travel too and from the country is easy, convenient and reliable. Italy has several major international airports, including Rome's Fiumicino, Milan's Malpensa, or Venice's Marco Polo. All three of these airports are well-connected to various cities worldwide, with direct flights from major hubs in the United States, Canada, and Europe. Across the country, there is also other airports which may be easier for reaching your final destination. However, these may not be as regular or as well connect as the bigger airports in Italy. Many airlines also offer domestic flights between Italy's major cities and ferries can transport you to the islands, such as Sicily and Sardinia. 

Trenitalia and Italo are the country's main train operators, and they provide extensive high-speed and regional rail services that connect most cities and towns, making train travel a very convenient choice for getting around the country. If you prefer more flexibility, renting a car is ideal and possible at different price points. Renting a car works best for places such as Tuscany or the Amalfi Coast, however, keep in mind that larger cities such as Florence and Rome will be more challenging due to the high volume of traffic, limited parking, and vehicle restrictions. 

Hire or bring your own bike to Italy? 

When cycling in Italy, deciding whether to bring your own bike or hire one depends on several factors. Bringing your own bike ensures a familiar ride and allows you to use your personal gear, which can be crucial for comfort and performance on long journeys or challenging routes. However, it involved logistical considerations such as transportation, cost, and assembly upon arrival, which will be different for all bikes, bike boxes and airlines. 

Hiring a bike in Italy does offer convenience and flexibility, especially if you need to travel light. There are plenty of high-quality bike rental shops across the breadth of Italy and they’ll be able to offer local expertise on the best routes and help with any bike adjustments needed. Ultimately, for a hassle-free experience with the freedom to focus on the ride rather than logistics, renting a bike is often a practical choice, but for those who prioritise personal comfort and familiarity, bringing your own bike might be worth the effort.

Regions to stay 

Tuscany 

When you think of Tuscany, your mind conjures up images of rolling hills of Chianti soaked in golden sunlight and relic-filled piazzas of the region’s capital city of Florence. The 2024 edition of the Tour de France began in Florence, showcasing some of Tuscany’s beautiful countryside, and the most famous race in the region is Strade Bianche – renowned for its white roads that produce spectacular dust clouds when the peloton charges over them. But in Tuscany, there are also the quaint towns and villages of San Gimignano, Lucca, Montalcino, Pienza, Montepulciano and Siena to explore. Plus, they are all in close proximity to one another, making cycling around the area a great opportunity to explore different spots. 

Image by Getty Images

If you want to immerse yourself with the locals, on the first Sunday in October, the region hosts L’Eroica – a vintage-flavoured cycle from Sienese Chianti to the Crete Senesi and the Val d'Orcia. The ride was first hosted in 1997 and still continues today with the aim of preserving Tuscany’s famous white gravel roads. 

The Dolomites 

The Dolomites are named after the French mineralogist Déodat Gratete de Dolomieu, who in 1789 was the first to describe the unique carbonate rock that makes up much of this mountain range in Italy. This rock, composed of calcium magnesium carbonate, was later named Dolomite in his honour. Dolomite rock is what makes this pale mountain’s colour and stunning light effects like Enrosadira – the glow of warm red tones the mountain turns when the sun goes down. Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2009 for their “unique monumental beauty”, the Dolomites are a must-see destination, especially for cyclists in the spring and summer months. The mountain range, which has 18 peaks over 3,000 metres, is home to some of the most famous and challenging mountain passes in the world, many of which are regular features in races like the Giro d’Italia and Tour de France. Most notably, in the Dolomites, you’ll find the Passo Pordoi, Passo Giau, Passo Sella, and Tre Cime di Lavaredo.

Though not a part of the Dolomites, other famous climbs of the Giro like the Passo dello Stelvio, the Passo di Gavia, and the Passo del Mortirolo are within driving distance.

Image by Getty Images

But not only are the mountains beautiful, the regions in which the Dolomites span are rich in culture and tradition. You can either base yourself in regions such as Trentino, South Tyrol, Veneto, and Friuli Venezia Giulia, or pass through them on the area’s dedicated cycle paths that connect them all together. If you head to the Dolomites in August, you’ll be able to partake in Sellaronda Bike Day – a unique event which is open to all that allows cyclists to ride all the passes around the Sella Group (Sella, Gardena, Pordoi, and Campolongo) free from traffic. 

Amalfi Coast 

The Amalfi Coast is located in southern Italy, along the Gulf of Salerno in the Tyrrhenian Sea. Stretching from the town of Vietri sul Mare to Positano, the whole coast is around 50km long and is characterised by its steep cliffs that plunge into the sea, with charming villages and towns perched precariously on the rocky slopes. Every town along the stunning coast each has its own character – Amalfi has mediaeval architecture, Positano is famous for its colourful houses, Ravello is known for elegant villas and being filled with artists, musicians and writers, Praiano offers beautiful beaches and less touristy charm, and Vietri sul Mare is renowned for its unique ceramics.  

Image by Getty Images

The main road, Strada Statale 163, goes along the coastline and is also the same road in which you’d cycle. It is a narrow and winding road, with some hairpin bends and steep cliffs, but the views left and right are spectacular. However, the Amalfi Coast is an extremely popular destination, especially in the summer months, so you should be prepared to share the roads with cars, buses and scooters – sunrise or late afternoon rides are the best times to go out on your bike to avoid the heaviest traffic. Nevertheless, cycling here is truly unforgettable as you’ll get to experience some of the most beautiful scenery in the world. 

Lake Garda 

Lake Garda is the largest lake in Italy, covering 370 square kilometres and stretches around 51km in length. It’s uniquely situated across three Italian regions: Lombardy, Veneto, and Trentino-Alto Adige. The road which winds around the entire lake, also known as the Gardesana, was an engineering marvel when it was built in the 1930s – engineers had to blast through the rockface and suspend parts of the road over the lake. But all the effort was worth the five years it took to complete as it is now one of the most beautiful roads in the world. You can cycle this road – it’s 140km in length on asphalt roads or dedicated cycle paths. The route will pass through villages and towns such as Sirmione, Riva del Garda, Torbole, Desenzano and Gargnano. Beyond the lake’s shores, this part of northern Italy offers a range of different cycle routes for road cycles, mountain bikes, or those just looking for a leisurely ride. 

Image by Getty Images

Piedmont 

Piedmont is a region in Italy that boasts two things cyclists love – coffee and mountains (for some, anyway). In the 19th century, Piedmont played a significant role in the development of Italian coffee culture, with the region being the origin of the Italian espresso machine that was invented by Angelo Moriondo in Turin. This innovation laid the foundation for Italy’s iconic coffee culture, which has now spread globally and is a key component to any ride. Piedmont is also home to the Monte Rosa massif, a mountain that straddles the border between Italy and Switzerland. It has a unique feature known as the “Piramide” – a striking peak that stands out amongst the massif’s many summits. 

Image by Lorenzo Scarpellini

There are many routes around Piedmont for cycling, including exploring Monte Rosa and also exploring the region nearer sea level around some of the area’s vineyards. Langhe offers the latter, and the Barolo wine route takes you through the Barolo wine country, offering stunning views of vineyards and quaint villages like Barolo and La Morra. You can also visit Monferrato, which also offers rolling hills and plenty of vineyards, but is also where hazelnuts grow. For those seeking more challenging rides, the Monte Rosa massif presents tough climbs, and the Sestriere area, part of the Vialattea ski region, includes steep ascents and rewarding descents. Turin, the regional capital, provides urban cycling routes and easy access to the surrounding countryside. Historic trails like the Via Claudia Augusta offer a unique glimpse into the region’s past. Piedmont also hosts various cycling events, including stages of the Giro d’Italia, adding to its vibrant cycling culture. 

Famous climbs to conquer 

Passo dello Stelvio 

  • 24km
  • 7.4% average gradient
  • 12% maximum gradient 
  • 1,808 metres climbed 

Passo Giau 

  • 9.9km
  • 9% average gradient
  • 14% maximum gradient
  • 903 metres climbed 

Passo di Gavia

  • 16.5km
  • 8.5% average gradient 
  • 13% maximum gradient 
  • 1,265 metres climbed  

Blockhaus 

  • 13.5km 
  • 8.8% average gradient
  • 14% maximum gradient 
  • 1,189 metres climbed 

Colle delle Finestre 

  • 18.5km
  • 9% average gradient 
  • 14% maximum gradient
  • 1,690 metres climbed 

Cycle sportives in Italy 

Image by Maratona dles Dolomites

Maratona dles Dolomites 

The Maratona is one of the most famous and challenging sportives in the world, taking you through the breathtaking Dolomites mountain range on closed roads with thousands of other people. It is typically held on the first Sunday in July and begins in Alta Badia in Northern Italy. There are three route options available to participants – Maratona course (138km), Middle course (106km) and the Sellaronda course (55km) – and all include the Dolomites most famous passes, including Passo Campolongo, Passo Pordoi, Passo Sella, Passo Gardena, Passo Giau, and Passo Valparola. It is a hugely popular event each year and tickets are sold via a lottery system. 

Learn more about the Maratona dles Dolomites

Gran Fondo Strade Bianche 

Inspired by the famous Strade Bianche Classic that the men's and women's WorldTour pros take on, this sportive offers you the chance to ride on the legendary white roads of Tuscany. The event typically includes routes of varying length, with the longest covered around 135km, and takes place the day after the professional race. Starting and finishing in Siena, the route takes in the beautiful rolling countryside and the famous white roads make up between 30 to 40 per cent of the entire route. 

Learn more about the Gran Fondo Strade Bianche

Nove Colli 

The Nove Colli cycling event, also known as the "Nine Hills", was first held in 1971 and is the oldest cycling event in Italy. The race covers 205km, however there is a short distance available, and includes nine hills that all riders must conquer – Madonna di Pugliano, Polenta, Pieve di Rivoschio, Ciola, Barbotto, Tiffi, Perticara, Monte Pugliano, and Gorolo. Having started so many years ago, the sportive is now deeply ingrained into the cycling culture of the area, with the whole town of Cesenatico, where the event begins, embracing the event each year. 

Learn more about Nove Colli

Words: India Paine

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